mugen mbx6 and m-spec settings?

[metalmulisha598]

just out of pure interest why are all the sock oils and diff oils different weights between the kit mbx6 and the m-spec model as i thought the only difference was one is pre-built and the others is in kit form.

cheers guys just trying to dial settings

[Marky]

I believe the Mspec is aimed more at the US market and in particular the US style of tracks, hence the difference in shock and diff oils

[Jaf]

Copying someone's setup sheet isn't necessarily going to dial in your car for you. Likewise, kit setup sheets are usually just a base setup to work from and should work to a certain extent for each track of a similar surface etc and probably be fairly neutral to drive. Even if you are copying driver X's setup for your local track...it doesn't mean its going to be spot on for you. Also, unless you are running the same make oils and in same conditions, it will also effect it. There are quite a few setup sheets....from the early kit setup sheet, to a revised setup, then you have the M-Spec setups and various team driver setups etc. You can try any MBX6 setup sheet...it doesn't have to be M-Spec specific if that is what you have got...although you may need to buy option parts (pistons, springs, rollbars, different spur gears, underdrive gear sets etc) depending on what you intend to do/copy.

As far as I'm aware in terms of the basic car (excluding any bits that may be bundled with it), the M-Spec is the same spec as the kit...except it has different spring rates and there are some differences in base setup. The springs in the M-Spec I believe are 1 step softer.

What sort of track are you running on?

I generally run on mainly dirt based tracks and am running roughly the following:

Diffs: 7-10-3 or 10-10-5 (may try 15-10-5 next) *Rear diff is underdriven

Shock pistons: Optional aftermarket pistons from Dave Crompton (are tapered): 6 hole if relatively smooth, 5 if quite blown out/bumpy

Springs : 1 or 2 steps stiffer than stock (9.50 or 9.25 front, 10.50 or 10.25 rear)

Shock weight: around 500 front, 450 rear

Clutch bell : 13T

Spur Gear : Optional 44T Spur gear

If you want more detail re: droop, ride height etc, I can double check it/send you a setup sheet if you PM me your email address.

There are also a number of team drivers' setup sheets on the UK distributor's website: RacePrep Longshaw Distribution

[metalmulisha598]

thanks a lot for that very detailed explanation much appreciated, i only got my buggy yesterday off of a mate i race with as my losi 2.0 was a tad unpredictable to drive.

i was planning on setting the car back to standard as a base setting to start with and work on from there.

the car is the kit version and i usually run at coventry (dirt) but im also doing the whole 8/10 series (lots of astro) so some of your ideas would help a lot on getting me started, i will pm you my email dude

[Jaf]

No probs....I've not run mine on Astro but believe they don't tend to run the underdrive on it. If you don't have the underdrive, Brian (Megacrash) maybe able to suggest a starting point on the diffs as oils needed will be different.

The underdrive is a very good option/upgrade for dirt tracks....but you need to run at least 7k center and ideally 10k+ and change the oil regularly. I ran 10-10-5 on Sunday and liked it alot and am planning on going heavier still. I believe Karl Jackson was running 20-20-5.

The exhaust can be a tight fit on the Mugen....depending on your exhaust, you may need to change the manifold/header to have a better if. If you give Models in Motion a call, they should have some Mugen/Ninja or Hypex optional manifolds that are suitable.

There are some setup sheets on the Raceprep website for Frankley which could give you a starting point for astro....but the tracks do vary alot and the conditions are very changable so you may need to play around with setup a bit more...

[metalmulisha598]

they are some pretty high weight oils, didnt think people ran them that high.
im actually popping down to models in motion tomorro so will def ask about the manifold. cheers for the help dude much apreciated

[Jaf]

No probs, am sure Stewart & co can sort you out and give you some tips...if you are after something specific it may be worth giving them a call to make sure they have it as I know they have been waiting on a shipment...

[Ginters]

Underdrive is essentially base setup now for the team guys, as jag mentioned you need to run at least 7 plus otherwise it will cook the oil and diff not something you want trust me.

Starting points without underdrive I tried 5 7 3 wasn't a huge fan the car wanted to drift everywhere under power nightmare if you want a fast lap!! Went to 7 7 7 and it's much nicer car is stable and on power it squats and takes off. For me it's still not as good as I had it which is why te underdrive will be going in and the oils upped to 10 10 5 but like jaf I'll probably go back to what I used to run which was 15 10 5 I got on well with that. I changed the oil every 2nd race day as it was knackered in hindsight maybe I should have done it after the race day that's me though I'm fairly anal about stuff like that